3D Printing Temperature Settings Chart: Every Common Filament (2026 Reference)

Created on 10.24

Temperature is the single most important variable in FFF printing. Get it right and almost everything else becomes tunable. Get it wrong and you fight warping, weak layers, stringing and clogs that no other setting can fix.

This is the reference chart we give to customers. Bookmark it.

Master Temperature Chart

Material	Nozzle	Bed	Chamber	Part Cooling	Notes
PLA	190–220 °C	50–60 °C	Not needed	100%	60 °C bed for glass; 45–50 °C for PEI
PLA+ / PLA Pro	200–230 °C	55–65 °C	Not needed	100%	Slightly higher than standard PLA
PLA-CF	210–230 °C	55–65 °C	Not needed	60–100%	Hardened nozzle required
PETG	230–250 °C	70–85 °C	Not needed	30–60%	Higher bed = stronger adhesion; use glue as release agent
PETG-CF	240–255 °C	75–85 °C	Not needed	30–50%	Hardened nozzle required
ABS	240–260 °C	90–110 °C	40–60 °C	0–30%	Enclosure effectively required
ASA	250–265 °C	95–110 °C	45–60 °C	0–30 °C	UV-resistant ABS alternative
TPU 95A	210–235 °C	40–60 °C	Not needed	20–50%	Slow retraction; direct drive preferred
TPU 85A	205–230 °C	35–50 °C	Not needed	20–40%	Print 10–20 mm/s
Nylon (PA6/PA12)	250–280 °C	70–100 °C	40–60 °C	0–30%	Dry 8–12 h before printing; dry box recommended
Polycarbonate (PC)	270–300 °C	100–120 °C	50–70 °C	0–30%	All-metal hotend required
HIPS	230–250 °C	90–110 °C	40–50 °C	0–30%	Common support material for ABS
PVA (support)	190–210 °C	45–60 °C	Not needed	50–100%	Keep dry; dissolves in water
Wood-filled PLA	190–220 °C	50–60 °C	Not needed	60–100%	Use 0.5 mm+ nozzle to reduce clogging
Metal-filled PLA	195–225 °C	50–60 °C	Not needed	50–80%	Hardened nozzle; wear-resistant extruder gears

How to Use This Chart

These are starting points, verified across common 1.75 mm filaments, not universal constants. Three factors shift the right number:

1. Nozzle diameter. A 0.6 mm nozzle needs slightly higher temperature (+5 °C) because the melt has less residence time and more surface area to heat. A 0.2 mm nozzle often needs −5 °C to avoid oozing.

2. Print speed. Doubling speed roughly requires +5 to +10 °C, because the filament spends less time in the melt zone. Slow prints at 20 mm/s can run cooler; fast prints at 150 mm/s need more heat.

3. Chamber and ambient temperature. An enclosed printer at 45 °C ambient behaves very differently from an open frame at 15 °C in winter. If your workshop gets cold, raise bed temperature by 5–10 °C and slow the first layer.

Fine-Tuning: The ±5 °C Method

Never tune in steps larger than 5 °C, and change one variable at a time.

To find your nozzle temperature:

Print a temperature tower covering the range in the chart (e.g. 240 → 190 °C for PLA, 265 → 230 °C for ABS).

Inspect bridging, surface finish and layer bonding at each band.

Choose the lowest

Why the lowest? Because excess temperature causes stringing, oozing, sagging overhangs, and thermal degradation of the polymer. Cold filament fails loudly; hot filament fails subtly.

To find your bed temperature:

Print a first-layer test patch at the low end of the range.

If corners lift or edges shrink away, raise the bed by 5 °C.

If the part is hard to remove or the bottom surface is glossy and distorted, lower by 5 °C.

For PETG on glass, always use glue stick as a release layer regardless of temperature.

First Layer vs Remaining Layers

Setting	First Layer	Layers 2+
Nozzle temperature	+5 °C above normal	Normal
Bed temperature	Same or +5 °C	May drop 5–10 °C for ABS/PETG
Speed	15–25 mm/s	Normal speed
Cooling fan	Off (except PLA)	Per chart

Printer-Specific Adjustments

Different machines read temperature differently by 5–15 °C depending on thermistor placement and hotend design. Practical implications:

Direct-drive, all-metal hotends

PTFE-lined hotends

Enclosed printers

Auto bed levelling

Temperature and Common Defects

Defect	Likely Temperature Cause	Correction
Stringing / oozing	Nozzle too hot	−5 °C, increase travel speed
Weak layer adhesion	Nozzle too cold	+5 °C, reduce cooling fan
Warping / corner lift	Bed too cold, ambient air moving	+5 °C bed, enclose the printer
Blobs and zits	Nozzle too hot, wet filament	−5 °C, then dry the filament
Rough, foamy surface	Wet filament	Dry it — temperature will not fix this
Poor overhangs	Too hot, too much cooling	−5 °C, increase fan
Layer shifting	Too fast / loose belts	Not temperature-related; check mechanics

A Note on Verification

The best temperature in the world will not compensate for inconsistent filament. If your prints change character halfway through a spool, suspect diameter variation rather than your temperature settings — here is why ±0.02 mm tolerance matters.

And if temperature tuning still leaves you fighting defects, work through our 10-point troubleshooting guide for the mechanical and moisture causes.

FAQ

What temperature should I print PLA at?190–220 °C nozzle, 50–60 °C bed, 100% cooling fan. Start at 205 °C / 60 °C and tune from there.

Why does PETG need a higher bed temperature than PLA?PETG has poorer first-layer adhesion to most surfaces, so a 70–85 °C bed is needed to hold it down. Always use a release agent on glass.

Can I print ABS at 230 °C?You can, but layer bonding will be weak and parts will split. ABS needs 240–260 °C plus a heated chamber for reliable results.

Do I need to change the temperature for coloured filament?Not usually. Pigments have a minor effect on melt flow; white and some metallic colours may print marginally better 5 °C hotter.

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